Today was a 42 nautical mile sail to Primosten. On the way we enjoyed the Croatian coastline and dodging all the boating traffic coming and going across the many islands and rock piles. We passed a lovely lighthouse called Prisn Jak.
Arriving in Primosten, you are greeted by a circular shaped island and the pronounced church belfry at the top. Originally surrounded by walls to protect it from the Turks, now the walls are just distant memories.
We arrived in Zadar and went stern to at the Marina Zadar. After doing a few loads of laundry, we headed into the “Old Walled Town”. This town was majorly damaged during the war 1991-1995. They were under siege for three months and the population was forced underground to survive. To get from the marina to “old town” you have two options: The first is to walk around the marina and over the pedestrian bridge. (They have traffic cops at all intersections here in Croatia). The second (and our choice) was to go out to the end of the T-head dock and climb aboard the Red Row Boat. There is a gentleman, who for 5 Kunas ($1 USD), will take you across the harbor and voila…you are at Old Town. These boat rowers have been doing this for over 800 years and it was a lot more fun!
Zadar is famous for being the first to produce Maraschino Cherries. The famous liquor was first produced by 16th century monks and called “sun dew”. It is now produced in the Maraska factory near the marina.
The city walls have several entrances, the most famous being The Land Gate built by the Venetians in 1543 which was the main entrance into the city. It is a beautiful arch complete with the famous Lion, the mark of the Venetians.
Inside the walls are ruins of a Roman Forum discovered in the 1930’s but not restored until the 1960’s. There are pieces of columns that kids can climb all over and stones with inscriptions by Emperor Augustus from the 3rd century BC that one can sit and ponder the activity of this site in its prime. There was built on this site a Basilica church.
During the summer the city is a bustling place full of restaurants and nightclubs. UB40 was coming on July 30th to the Forum. John and I looked into it but we need to be in Dubrovnik then. Tickets are only 100 Kuna ($20 USD), When was the last time you went to a concert that only cost $20?
A great 20 mile sail to the Island of Zut, part of the Kornati Island Group. The islands seem very barren, reminding me of what the moonscape looks like. One of the legends of the Kornati is that they emerged by chance when God created the world. He accidently dropped 140 pebbles from his pocket and when he went to pick them up he liked what he saw and said, “Let them stay, nothing needs repair here”.
This morning we were promptly awaken by the Captain to “Pull up the anchor” as another boat had swung into our space and a collision was imminent. As we left, we were overrun by a Thunderstorm. At one point, we thought we had been hit by lightening as the Radar went blank and the depth meter read “0”…they eventually came back on…all’s well that ends well. I finally got a photo of a lightening bolt (see photo #1).
We ended up on Pasman Island in the anchorage Soline. We hooked up to our first mooring buoy. We are now waiting for the “official” to come and collect the mooring fee and visitor’s tax. The fee is collected irrespective of whether a mooring is used or the anchor. Another 200 Kunas (about $40)
Yes, I think this has to be right up there with the Jungfrau in Switzerland. We took the water taxi from Skradin to Krka National Park and Waterfalls (leaves every hour). It is a free ride but you pay to enter the park once you arrive…95 Kunas or about $20 USD per person. There are seven falls that drop approximately 140 feet. It was declared a National Park in 1985.
There is a very nice wooden walking path which takes about an hour to walk. The flora, fauna, and aquatic life are amazing. The water was so clear you could see the fish as they swam in one spot…I could have watched them for hours:
As we got back to the marina, the “Swan” family greeted us with all their children. Sorry, I don’t remember all their names…haha.
We left the inlet and re-entered the Kanal S. Ante and immediately passed by the Saint Nicholas Fort. There is a small dock available for yachts to stop and explore the fort. We chose to keep going and headed towards Sibenik.
Since our goal for today was to get to the Krka National Park, we had to bypass Sibenik and head straight towards Skradin.
We did not stop in Sibenik but did a float-by to enjoy the sights (see the old city walls in photo #1?)
On the way we also passed an 87 foot tall road bridge which allows traffic to cross the gorge. It just so happened that a bungee jumper was there doing his thing.
Along the way we passed many shellfish farms and even a “Drive-Through Mussel Stand”
We got to Skradin in time to hand the Harbour Guy our “Croatian Cruising Permit”(they keep it on file until you check out and PAY), catch a bite to eat and head to the boat that takes you into Krka National Park. After the park, we enjoyed watching the swans that are prolific here and the beautiful town lights at night:
Today we decided to head towards Sibenik. What we thought was a 15 mile quickie turned into a bit more as a BORA (the strong wind which blows here in Croatia) was headed straight at us, also making the swells and wave chop crazy. After bashing around in it for a while and sticking our nose into Marina Kremik thinking it was much too “packed” for our comfort level, we headed back out only to bash a while longer before finding a beautiful inlet called Uvala Capljena, the second inlet as inside the Kanal S. Ante. It was very calm and enjoyable until… the Captain realized that the front hatch had been slightly open all day leaving a salt water soaked bed and floor holds containing all of our snorkel/diving gear. Nothing a few loads of laundry and some fresh water washing off couldn’t take care of. The alternator pump that was in one of the holes might be a different story however. What a calm, cool night at anchor it turned out to be.
I just couldn’t resist getting a great shot of Jay Sea Dee when the boats next to us left before us, leaving a back drop to die for:
Welcome Aboard Ann and Jack (aka Mom and Dad Dinsmoor). We just keep finding out more and more about Trogir as it has been our base for about a week now. For instance, there is a daily produce/flea market. Check out all the different olive oils:
Johns folks arrived and we showed them around “old town”. Then we had dinner at a restaurant specializing in traditional Dalmation foods. I had the Pasticada which is baked beef, marinated in a sweet/sour sauce for 24 hours and served with gnocchi…it was delicious. Then we walked back to the marina via the “Riva” (waterfront) where the entertainment was just getting started even though it was 10pm on a Tuesday evening. There were “Buskars” (street performers) and the nightly “Disco” was LOUD and CLEAR to name a few.
This is mostly for Jeanne and Greg.
Check out the Cilantro now!!! And new sprouts for the second batch! I think we might be ready for corn next
We came to Trogir to get much needed fuel and water. We decided to stay at the Marina as our guests would be needing to haul suitcases and meet up with a taxi to get to the airport. After tying up, we headed to the nearest café for an Apres Sail Drink. It had to have been close to 100 degrees outside. I was definitely a happy camper when I found not only a book exchange but a coin-operated washer and dryer. There was only one and it was popular so you had to be on top of your game to get to use them.
Trogir is a Unesco World Heritage Site founded as early as 380 BC. There is a town quay but it is reserved for yachts over 25 meters in length (we are only 15meters). The marina is on the Island of Ciovo but is connected to the old town by a bridge for cars and pedestrians.
As you can see, the waterfront (called the Riva) is lined with palm trees. We enjoyed an “Al Fresco” (outdoor) meal with the Worfords near the clock tower. As we were eating, the electricity went off and on…to “Oh’s and Ah’s” of the crowds. We were mostly concerned about whether the Air Conditioning was still working on the boat. There was also some ash floating down upon us and a hazy sky but nobody seemed concerned and we did not smell any smoke.
As we strolled through the alley ways we stopped at the Cathedral of St. Lawrence. It is very much a Renaissance style and just one of those buildings you can’t get enough of. The Kamerlengo Fortress was having a comedy show but since it would be in Croatian we didn’t think it would be so funny. Maybe we should have gone and just laughed when the audience laughed…haha.
We have now moved to the anchorage nearby to save the cost of the berthing at the marina. It was around 100 Euros ($150 USD) to stay each night. That includes water and electricity (cost of 10 Euros per night). Croatia is the only place we have ever been where they charge you to anchor. Tonight the Port Authority came and charged 200 Kunas which is about $40 USD and we are at anchor…unbelievable!
