Monaco

Today we left Nice and sailed about 8 miles to Port Fontvieille in Monaco. The seas were a bit choppy today but we only had about an hour sail. As we pulled into the harbor, we were greeted by an interesting statue (see photo). We tried to get into the main port, Hercule, but they told us we were too SMALL.

We checked in and realized the berth took a bigger electrical plug than we had so we had to leave a 100 Euro deposit and were all fixed up. We grabbed a map and caught the nearest bus (bus #6) and for 1 Euro got the Grand Tour of town before exiting at the casino.

The Casino is beautiful but you do have to pay 10 Euros each to go past the front entry and into the gaming rooms. So we just walked in the door and already were 20 Euros down. They make you check your bags and cameras and don’t allow any photos. Thank God they had no Craps tables, only 25 Euro minimum Blackjack and Roulette. We played a bit of Video poker and slots…left a few more Euros for the Prince

After leaving the casino we found ring side seats at the outdoor cafe right by the casino. So we sat and watched People and Cars for a while. See John standing by the Bugatti? It was a Veyron model with 980 hp and goes 253 mph. Hard to believe it has a base price of 2 million.

Tomorrow…no more casino, only tourist traps :)

Oh Nice…Sooooo very Nice!

We finally reached the French Riviera and it was worth every hour sitting on that sailboat.  I could hardly decide between working the lines as we are docking or taking photos with my camera…I was so awestruck at the scenery in front of me.  The whole day was like this.  First we saw the mega yachts near Cannes although we had seen a few near St. Tropez yesterday.  But then pulling in here and knowing this has been a port since 350 BC is just another thing.  I won’t explain any further…just enjoy the photos!

Sainte Marguerite Island

Today was another 12 hour sail.  But we were rewarded at the end by the perfect anchorage.  We anchored in the Plateau de Milieu which is between two Islands, one of which is Ste. Marguerite.  The water was dark blue and royal turquoise in other spots so we picked the lighter color knowing the bottom would be more sandy and easier to stick the anchor. This island is the nearest to Cannes, France.  This weekend was the end of the yearly Cannes film festival so we decided to anchor out. It was a bit rolly at first but calmed down for the perfect nights sleep.

We got up to a leisurely breakfast and pulled out the dinghy for a ride ashore to see Fort Royal.  It is famous for holding the “Man in the Iron Mask” for a period of eleven years in the 17th century.  They claim that they still don’t know his identity to this day.  He was transferred to the Bastille prison in France where he died.

There was also a very nice Sea Museum showing the various artifacts that have been found in the many shipwrecks around the coast.  I found this fascinating.  One of the exhibits showed the ceramic vases and how they were loaded with fish and sea salt and then how they were found at the bottom of the sea.

Becalmed

This morning we left Port Camargue in some good wind, probably about 20 knots or so and sailed until around 1:00pm when we were suddenly becalmed.  Turn on the motor again. 

We kept seeing these black fins come out of the water and so we finally turned around to check one out.  It was one of those Oceanic Sunfish (also called a Mola Mola) which look like a huge fish that is cut in half and all you see is the front.  We saw them all day long after that.  I guess they like the calm seas to sun themselves.

Tonight we stopped at Port Miou.  This is a long Calanque with many berths.  Anchoring is prohibited here but the Yacht clubs have laid Mooring buoys for you.  All you have to do is call VHF channel 9 and they come to help you as you have to get a line through the top of the mooring AND THEN a line to the back wall to the mooring rings.  This used to be a quarry for hard white stone that was exported all over the world and some used in the Suez Canal.  You can see the old Roman arches where they had chutes and quays for working the quarry.  Now the chutes are used by high divers who dive the 20-30 meters into the water.  Last night they were filming a TV show right above us…fun to watch. 

Nimes, Arles, and Camargue

John wanted to see the Pantheon building in Nimes but we were just too exhausted last night. So we decided to finish the town of Nimes this morning. The Pantheon building was all covered in scaffolding so it was a bit of a disappointment but we walked on and found a gem. We entered the “Jardin de la Fontaine” (which is my maiden name).

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What a beautiful garden, flowers starting to grow and fountains going, just a beautiful site. We walked up and up to see what was there and ran into the Tower. It turned out to be an old Roman lookout tower for the city of Nimes. Nimes used to be a walled city because of its importance to the Romans. It was where denim was first fabricated (hence the name..Nimes). We paid our admission fee and climbed up an old winding staircase (where my fear of heights had a hold on me) but we made it and the view was worth it.

Arles. This is where Vincent Van Gogh lived for many years but left nothing more than part of his ear. They also have a Roman Arena but we decided not to pay for admission since we had just sat in one the night before. We walked along the Rhone but the “Mistral” (name for the wind in this part of France) was picking up and not much fun right off the riverbanks. We visited the Reattu Museum which is in a 15th century mansion and is mostly modern art including 57 Picasso drawings. Then we treated ourselves to a gelato and got back in the car.

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The Camargue. This is the “wild” area of Provence. It is a National Park where pink flamingos, wild bulls, and famous white horses wander freely. There are salt marshes, rice fields and vineyards as well. We paid to visit the Bird Watching area and it was a feast for the eyes. Good thing we didn’t have Obie…no Dachschunds allowed (see photo)…boo.

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Then we went to the nearby town Saintes Maries-De-La-Mur but it was a ghost town so we stopped at the beach. A beach all to ourselves…what a treat.

On the way back to Port Camargue, we stopped at a roadside market and purchased some great finds!…Seahorse Wine made by the Listel Vineyard was a must, also the Fleur De Sal (made from only the top layer of the sea salt), and finally some of the local rice.

The French bulls die of “Old Age”…right???

A few nights before our arrival in Provence we watched a travel video that highlighted a French Bullfight and stressed how the French bulls “Die of Old Age” and the matadors spend their time jumping walls to escape the mad bulls (no killing involved).  So knowing we were doing a road trip soon we got on the internet and found a bullfight in Nimes for the 19th.  After translating the French only website, we had a confirmation in hand for tickets in the Haute A section…not cheap at 60 Euros each but for a once in a lifetime experience…priceless.

We checked into our beautiful Hotel “Le Pre Gallofre”, a refurbished French farmhouse.  We were informed that there was a free shuttle to the stadium from a nearby parking lot.  So we hopped on and when everyone else got off so did we (not a good travel tip but…)  And voila, there was the stadium.  It was magnificent (better preserved than the one in Rome).  The “will call” window was on a nearby street and not at the stadium so it took us a bit to find Street 6 but then we had tickets in hand. 

I was so excited to actually experience a bullfight in an old Roman Stadium that people experienced bullfights in over 2000 years ago.  The pomp and circumstance was inviting and breathtaking.  This part of the bullfight is called the Corrida.  The matadors wore their brightly colored ceremonial garb and the sun glistened against the sequins.  Our seats were awesome other than the smoke coming from all directions as the French are still allowed to smoke in public places.

I should have known something was up when we noticed spears hanging on the wall across the stadium.

Then came in the bull.  He tore up the gate upon his entrance so you knew it was going to be a good fight.  There were three matadors with pink capes.  They are called banderilleros or capeadores.  They seemed to be “playing” the bull and whenever he charged them, they got to hide behind the blind that protected them.    Next entered the horses covered in armor with the Picador dressed in Gold proudly riding on top with the spear in hand.  The bull seemed very attracted to the armor and headed straight for it engaging its horns right into the side of the horse (which was protected by all the armor).  My worst fears then came true as the Picador rammed the bull with the spear in the top of the back.  WARNING…don’t read on unless you are prepared.  Then the blood was squirting out the hole in the back of the bull dripping down his back.

In comes THE MATADOR.  He performs his statuesque ritual while the crowd roars and he throws off his hat…game on.   

He has the red cape and proceeds to play the bull although the bull is tiring.  The three Banderilleros come back into the ring, each with two short-brightly colored spears in hand.  They proceed one at a time to call the bull to their pink capes and stab him with their barbed darts. The crowd roars “Ole”with each passing of the cape.  They are clapping madly.  I hide my eyes.  So now the bull has been stabbed with six more darts that stay in him.  The red-caped matador re-appears and the crowd is tense.  He plays the bull some more…more “Ole”.  Then he pulls out his first sword and hits the what now seems to be the target on the back of the bull...apparently trying to reach the bulls heart.  Out comes a second sword with a cross near the tip which ends up directly in the bulls neck and spinal cord area which immediately falls the bull.  I think John and I were the only ones NOT clapping at this point.

I am in TOTAL emotional shut down at this point.  The crowd is again cheering, the men down below have brought in the horses and a hitch to drag out the bull and others are shoveling the sand to cover all the blood.  Ready for round number two.

I could have left then but John was not moving and I didn’t want to hang out in a strange city all by myself so I stay.  UNBELIEVABLE…or STUPID.

We watch two more of these events.  The second matador misses with his second sword and the bull is moaning…I am moaning.  People are jeering this time but he finishes the job shortly.  The third matador also misses a few times and it was time to GO.  I don’t know how many more times this occurred that night but I was an emotional mess…just really wanted to cry. 

John and I go to eat…I have a salmon salad…no beef tonight for me.  When we are finished with dinner the show is obviously over.  The streets are blocked off from vehicles, the bars are all prepared with their bullfight decor and their loud music just waiting for the riled up crowd to start drinking more.

We found our free bus back to the car feeling sad and defeated.  This is only my take on the whole situation. I am planning on researching the ceremonial aspects of why they do what they do when I have good internet.