The City of Love…Venice

First we were skipping places trying to get back on schedule and now we had a few extra days ahead of schedule…we should just forget the schedule!!!!  Anyway, we headed to Venice with our extra days.  We booked a train from Genoa Brignole station through Milan and onto Venice for 92 Euro per person.  We found Hotel Palazzo Giovanelli on the Grand Canal for three nights and off we go! First night we get in a bit late but get our 3 day passes on the water taxi.  It is 6.50 Euro per ride per person so we got the 72 hour 33 Euro pass.  The water is the only means of transportation or walking (see the first photo…it gets crazy with the boat traffic). Next on to the famous Harry’s Bar for a Bellini (peach juice and champagne).  This is where Hemingway hung out every day and wrote a bit.  He would probably have a fit though if he had to purchase the 15 Euro very small Bellini.  We did sit next to some very nice girls from Charleston, SC on a European expedition also having the Bellini.  That’s when we knew it was going to be an expensive side trip...you can’t take it with you though, right?!

Day #2 was Correr’s Museum where you get a look at some Venetian art such as sculptures, paintings, armor, coins…quite the variety.  We went here first with a suggestion from Rick Steve’s book to buy the San Marco Museum Pass.  This museum is not crowded but the pass also gets you into the Doge’s Palace and the glass museum in Murano.  The Doge’s (Dukes) Palace had a huge line outside and with the pass you can just go to the front of the line and into the special entrance…great hint!!!  So then we did the Doge’s Palace.  This was the point of reign for Venice for over 1000 years.  Then we went to St. Marks Square and hung out.  To quench our thirst, we bought a 10 Euro BOTTLE of Bellini (such a deal!) and sat and watched people, pigeons, and a Chinese wedding celebration for a while.  We found a 30 minute documentary about Venice and learned a lot.  Marco Polo was born in Venice then was one of the first explorers of China.  Venice was born in the 5th century when Atilla the Hun attacked Northern Italy and the residents fled his wrath, ending up in Venice.  Napolean conquered Venice and it became part of Austria in 1797 and then with Napolean was defeated and in 1866 Venice became part of Italy again.  Cassanova was also born in Venice in 1618.  He was thought to have 100’s of lovers before being imprisoned in 1755 as a spy.  He escaped months later and was never seen in Venice again. 

Then we noticed that there was to be a “Violins of Venice” ensemble at the San Vitale church that evening.  So we bought tickets and headed to the church to get a good seat…almost front row!  They were playing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons Concerto which he wrote in 1725.  It was really awesome.  We would recommend this to all.  

Day three was St. Marks Basilica.  Got up early for this one as the line was huge the day before.  What a beautiful church which is free to see but they charge for all the extras (like to see the treasury or the altar, etc.)  Then we were talked into a “free” ride to the Island of Murano to see a glass blowing demonstration.  Who can resist that?  After the demo they whisk you off to their “Special” showroom just for you until you just beg to leave or tell them you don’t have thousands to spend on Murano glass.  We got back into Venice and went to the famous Rialto bridge and stopped in a few tourist shops where we found the glass piece we just had to have.  The dolphins are an art piece and they change color in the light…to die for! It is being shipped home for us of course.        

Venice is a vibrant city that is losing much of its population.  It is hard to maintain a home built on the water.  The boat system is VERY crowded and hard for the elderly to handle.  A 1000 square foot apt. costs over 1 million dollars today so most of the population is the elderly that have lived there all their lives. 

If you just stop on a street corner you hear the slapping sounds of the water hitting everywhere around you.  You hear the voice of a talented singer belting out a Venetian song with the accordian accompaniment in a nearby gondola.  You walk through the streets and smell mildew but turn the corner and smell pizza.  The colors of the city are bright and glow in the sunshine.  What a great place to visit but I wouldn’t want to live here.