Pollensa, Mallorca…Sailor Heed Warning!

Pollensa is a very large bay surrounded by pine covered trees.  We tried to get the anchor to hold over and over…at least six times before it finally dug into the weed covered bottom.  Our Fortress anchor does NOT like weeds!  Once the anchor was set, I went to work making some guacamole.  I had to use all that Home Grown Cilantro soon, before it went to seed.  It was a DELICIOUS batch!  Our neighbor was the San Miguel boat which was out delivering FREE beer to a lucky few but didn’t stop at Jay Sea Dee…the Captain was waiting astern for his chance…maybe it was the scary headband .  Gotta Love It!

The next morning we were awaken very early by the rolling and the anchor alarm so off we headed to the other side of the bay.  It was a nice anchorage, that is until about 1am(yes, in the middle of the night) when the rolling and the anchor alarm was at it again.  We tried to cross the bay again unsure why the winds kept drastically changing…nothing we saw in the weather report…and it was very dark outside.  We tried and tried to set the anchor in the weeds that we were so unsuccessful at the day before.  We did not want to take a chance leaving the bay in the dark with the high steep rock walls surrounding the exit.  The Captain, using the radar to detect any other anchored boats, just went up and down the anchorage until daylight.  Then all Hell broke loose.  The wind was coming at us straight into the bay but we wanted out so we increased the RPM’s and headed out into 15 footers that were bouncing off those canyon like walls.  We pitched and heeled further than we can remember but an hour later we were safely “out at sea”. Thank God for good ole reliable and strong Island Packets.  It never occurred to me that I should worry about the boat in those conditions.  The lighthouse in the Bay looks so peaceful…the day before!

And the one right outside the Bay:

All’s Well that Ends Well!

What is the special dish in Fornells?

Ok, I have to admit we had a special Spanish friend tell us not to miss the “caldereta de langosta” when we got to Fornells so off we went…on a mission!  It is Lobster Stew and we priced it at every restaurant we passed.  I have to admit that I really didn’t want to pay the typical 60-70 Euro price (about $100) but we found a Special Menu for 45 Euro which included the bread, stuffed aubergine (eggplant), Sangria, water AND dessert…such a deal.

They covered me in a bib and provided all the lobster utensils a person could ask for.  They have these special scissor/plier things that are very USEFUL!  I will have to get me a few pair…no more nut crackers for me and my lobsters.

The Channel of Fornells Harbour is long and narrow.  We took a walk around the point to see the defense tower and then visited the old British Fort from 1798…not much left of it.  We stopped at the candy store…what a colorful place!  And we realized how far from New York we really are.

This morning we woke up to a very wet deck which we kind of expected due to the humidity yesterday.  Made for a beautiful departure to Mallorca.

Glad To Hear Everyone is OK

Even way over here we find a way to touch base with friends and family when it comes to their health and safety,  So far it seems that all our Buddy Boaters are safe and sound and that Hurricane Irene did not get the best of them!  It’s All Good!

Menorca and La Mola

We survived another overnighter and arrived in Menorca, Spain yesterday, August 21st.  Our Imray Cruisers Guide is six years old and the company to call for berths is no longer open for business so we used the Kindle 3G service and found a berth at a floating dock for 129 Euro per night.  It was a zoo with boats coming and going but what a beautiful harbor.

Today we got up and went ashore in Mao.  We immediately just found the Grand Staircase and started walking “Up”.  As soon as we got to the top we were in the Shopping District and walked the streets.  We found signs directing you to the Market and followed those.  The market is actually in a huge building with locals selling their wares upstairs and a grand grocery store below.  We stopped at a booth and purchased some of the Famous Menorcan Cheese.  We also bought some Mayonnaise because Menorca is where it was invented.  Because I didn’t need a new pair of shoes, I bought a traditional shoe keychain of the Menorcan “Avarcas” shoe. 

After eating lunch at an Indian Restaurant, we headed to La Mola.  What a huge complex this Fortress of Isabel II.  We have seen many Fortresses in our travels but this one is the gem in the Queens crown.  It was started in 1848 and took 25 years to build.  It was built because France and Great Britain were disputing control of the Mediterranean and the Spaniards wanted to keep control of this very important port.  We were told that as soon as they finished the Fortress, technology had changed so much that it was already outdated.  The biggest attraction here was the 15 inch Vickers gun.

I would highly recommend this visit although I would do it later in the afternoon when it is cooler.

Sardinia for the Holiday

As we left Capo St. Vito on Sicily we couldn’t help but go AHHHHH at the gorgeous view the cape leaves behind.  It looks like the Pitons of St. Lucia with a gorgeous emerald beach and the lighthouse just rounds off the picture.

Anyway, off we headed for another overnight run of about 170 miles.  The wind and waves were in our favor so out came “THE BEAST”.  It has been a long time since we released the beast but today it was very happy.  It gave us a 10 hour run…must be a record here…it was for us!

The next morning we rounded Capo Carbonara with its lighthouse standing tall and proud.

We had arrived early in the morning but by noon there were boats EVERYWHERE.  Another “let’s anchor as close together as possible” scenario which was making us a bit nervous but we held out and glad we did.  That night we were center stage to three different fireworks shows lasting over an hour.  The next day we found out all the hoopla was because of two holidays rolled into one.  The first being Assumption Day (August 15th) celebrated by the Roman Catholics.  The second being Ferragosto which is a summer holiday originally declared because all the harvesting was done and now it was time to enjoy the summer…now everyone joins that band wagon, not just the farmers.

Moving on, we headed to Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia and its largest city.  We found a lot of empty berths at the marina St. Elmo…everyone is on Holiday.  As the marina is pretty far from the center of town where all the action is, we quickly figured out the bus routes and hopped on.  We noticed people doing Segway tours and once we saw that the castle, the bastion, and the views were way uphill, we signed up.  What a blast it was.  The castle is from the 13th century and still has two white limestone towers standing.  One is called the Elephant Tower.  Under its archway were some draw bridges with big spikes to keep out the intruders.  our guide told us many hangings were done at this site and the heads would be left out as trophies.  We also saw the St. Remy Bastion, now a gathering place for the young.  We passed the grand avenue Via Roma with all the designer shops and Café’s.  Also near there are the Grand old home fronts that reeked of stories to be told from the past.  We wound our way through the narrow alleys and around the sea front.  A great time for sure…highly recommended!

On our ride we got to tour the Cathedral of Cagliari where they have one of the Sacred thorns from Jesus’ crown.  There used to be five but they were stolen.  The thief ran into a storm at sea where he promised to return the relics in exchange for his safety. He returned safely and gave them to a convent who gave them to the Pope. The Pope authenticated them and gave one to the Cathedral on the condition they show it to the “faithful” every year on Assumption Day.  Yep, we missed seeing it by two days.  A truly enjoyable city.

Deja Vu

After heading through the strait we headed to Vulcano Island, one of the Aeolian Islands.  This would be the first place that we have returned to or previously visited (hence the Déjà vu) in our Mediterranean voyage…must mean we are heading home.  Last year we anchored here but it was the first of September already.  Then we headed West on the North shores of Sicily to get to Tunisia. 

Well, when we were getting close to Vulcano yesterday there were boats everywhere…coming…going…fast…slow.  Then we pulled into Porto di Levante, took our time cruising around looking for a space…any space…no room at the inn so off we headed to Lipari Island…same story.  You see, in August, all of Italy goes on vacation for the whole month…and I think they all have boats and head to the Aeolian Islands.  In Lipari there were hundreds of boats…all shapes and sizes…anchored no more than 30-40 feet from each other in water depths of over 100 feet.  You know they couldn’t have put out the right amount of chain for those depths and then if the wind changed overnight as it typically does…ooh laa laa…what a mess. 

The Captain and I just couldn’t put Jay Sea Dee in that position, or ourselves, so off we headed into the night.  The Captain loved it as he got to put up sails for a while, there was a full moon out and nobody else was out there!  Ciao to the Aeolian Islands! 

We are now at Capo San Vito.  There is still a lot of boats here but for now they are keeping their appropriate distance and we are only in 20 ft. depths.  The water is crystal-clear green over a sandy bottom with black fish swimming everywhere and all the beach umbrellas are adding lots of color…great decision!

The perilous Strait of Messina

We left Naxos early so we could get through the Strait and head to Vulcano Island.  As a sailor we’ve all heard those treacherous tales of getting through the Strait of Messina which separates Sicily from mainland Italy.  At its most narrow point it is only 1 1/2 miles across.  There are two myths about the strait that give you the feeling of doom early yachtsmen felt. 

The first was called Scilla who was said to dwell in a cave atop a sheer cliff on the eastern side.  She had 12 feet and 6 long necks with horrible heads that came down to eat the dolphin and swordfish.  Some believe this to be water-spouts which are often seen in this area.

On the western side there was Kharibdis.  It was a giant whirlpool that swallowed ships that came too close.  We saw a few whirlpools but we made it through…whew!

On our way through we got a glimpse of a swordfishing boat.  The mast is made of steel with an electric hoist to get the Captain up and down as he can steer the boat from the top.  There is a bowsprit which is usually longer than the boat (up to 50 ft. in length).  Apparently the swordfish ‘sleep’ on the surface during the day so the Captain can spot them floating around and sneak up for the catch.  What a sight it was.

There is a red/white lighthouse on the mainland side and a black/white lighthouse on Sicily.

We made it through without being eaten up by whirlpools or horrible heads…It’s All Good!

The Blue Grotto at Last!

Since the weather report still shows high winds from the North, we decide to wait another day to go through the infamous Strait of Messina.  Out comes the dinghy for a day of exploration.  Heading North around Capo Taormina it gets a bit choppy but we persevere.  There are a lot of “excursion boats” out so we just follow one to see where they are going.  We pass many crowded beaches and guess what…we end up at the Grotta Azzura!  Then to our amazement one of the excursion boat captains waves us in in front of him and we are in The Blue Grotto…Wow.  I didn’t get the greatest photos as you are kind of rushed in and rushed out but it was Great!  So even though this isn’t the infamous Blue Grotto on the Island of Capri (that I have tried to get to 3 times now), I think this was a much more personalized experience…Thank you Sicily!

Next, we head to Naxos town and have lunch of Veal in Lemon Sauce and a Calzone.  We are walking through town and find dinner as well, wood-fired roasted chicken…can’t wait!

The beaches are too crowded for our taste BUT LOOK, they even offer “Baby Parking”????